Kampot Trip - Part 2 - Note to Self: Next Time, Plan Ahead!

When I was a little kid, one of my favourite birthday party games was 'Pin the Tail on the Donkey'.  (If you don't know the game, read about it by clicking on the link.)  Looking back on our trip to Kampot, I can truly say it was just like that game.  We had only a vague idea of where we were going, and how we were getting there, and no idea where we would eat or sleep, or what we would do, other than buy Kampot pepper. 

When we arrived at the bus station in Kampot, it was already getting dark.  We were hot, tired, and hungry - two barang (foreigners) in an unfamiliar town - and the jackals were waiting.  Immediately, we were barraged at the station by tuk-tuk drivers all with brochures or cards for guesthouses in hand.  "Pick me!  Take my guesthouse!  I give you good price!  Best guesthouse in Kampot!  No, come to mine,  mine better!" They swarmed around us like bees, buzzing and hovering, and not giving us a moment to think clearly.  Finally in a fit of frustration, Gordon pointed to one card with a picture of a nice room, said "This looks pretty good.  Let's try it.", and we hopped in the tuk-tuk to the Kampot Riverview Guesthouse.

We were met by a young man named Rotha, whose English was fairly good.  Unfortunately, he said, he had only one room left - fan only, no air conditioning, no hot water.  Six dollars.  (Actually, he said sick dollars - That should have been my first clue).  He would have a better room tomorrow with hot water for $7.  Remember, we were hot, tired, hungry, disoriented.  We just wanted a place to lay down and rest our weary bones. We really weren't in the mood to start walking the dark streets looking for a place to stay.  We said we'd take a look, and even though it was pretty rough, we decided to stay one night.  After all, how bad could it be?  How bad, you ask?  Check this out.....

The blanket was smaller than the bed.
Gotta love the coordinated bedding!
The curtains were on a rod suspended over two nails

Mickey mouse clock

Romantic mood lighting

The fan was propped up with a string. 
It squeaked & squealed all night

No lid on the toilet
After the first flush, it broke,
so we had to fill up the tank by hand

And what hard thing do you think they are referring to?

Oh well, it was only for one night, right?  And after all, it did have this lovely waterfront restaurant and sitting area....

Waterfront restaurant

Sitting area

We registered, then went to the restaurant to get something to eat and drink.  Rotha was fast on our heels, chatting us up, not letting us get a word in edgewise.  (That should have been my second clue).  We mentioned we were hungry, but instead of a menu, he brought out a tour brochure, and started to pressure us into purchasing our tour packages and our return bus ticket.  (That should have been my third clue).  Not wanting to seem impolite, and anxious to get things sorted out and settled, we bought two tour packages and our return bus tickets. (Why would I be suspicious...It's very common to do this at guesthouses throughout Cambodia). 

It was late before the menus finally came out, and we ate heartily and headed back to our room.  As I opened the bathroom door and turned on the light, a HUGE cockroach the size of my thumb skittered down the open drain in the corner.  I held my feet up off the floor and got out as quickly as I could.  It couldn't get much worse (or could it?)

I will leave you all in suspense until the next episode, and I will only just say this one thing....
Fair warning!  If you ever go to Kampot and if you ever run into this man, turn around and run the other way!

Rotha

On volunteering...

As I 'mouse over' the bottom right hand corner of my computer, a box appears to warn me that it's already February 11th. We leave in less than four weeks.  The days continue to go by far too quickly.

 When we were here last year, I taught hand sewing and embroidery to about 60 students.  As we neared our time to leave last March, I was able to look back and see what those kids had learned, and what I had accomplished, and I derived a great deal of satisfaction in knowing I had left something tangible here.  I dreamed that this skill I'd brought to these kids might somehow live on and make their lives a little different at some time in the future.  This year, I came to Cambodia with soaring hopes, good intentions and great ideas of what I would be doing....helping a doctor at a health clinic, teaching sewing and embroidery.... and none of that happened.  My volunteer work here now consists of playing with kids all day, serving rice at lunch, picking up toys, rocking little ones to sleep, sponging down feverish little bodies, guiding tiny hands holding a crayon, doing jigsaw puzzles, and handing out reams and reams of drawing paper to endless calls of 'Som grodah' (Paper please!). 

Last year, Gordon came here to do woodworking, and he built 10 computer desks and a complex shelf unit.  This year, he's building ten more low desk/tables, as well as several other things (a meditation bench, easels, shelving), and he's also doing a ton of repairs.  There are days I look at the work Gordon is doing, and I am immensely jealous, because he can visibly measure what he has accomplished here, and I cannot.  All my life, I have measured my usefulness in observable, tangible ways, and I now find myself with no benchmark to gauge my value or success here.  Many times, when there are five or more full-time volunteers onsite, I feel like the odd (wo)man out, like a tit on a bull, and I dream up ways to make my moments here count.  I've made the commitiment to paint the PVC water pipes so they won't deteriorate from the sun.  I've already learned that Gordon expects me to varnish the desks he's making.  But is this the way I want my time here to be remembered?  I remind myself that all these jobs need to be done by someone and it might as well be me, but deep inside I know that I am fighting that desire to feel like I have done something important, like I have left my mark here. 

Today I was asked to accompany Sreylean (one of the house-mothers) who was taking seven of the kids with various complaints to Angkor Hospital for Children.  It was a tight squeeze as we all piled into the tuk-tuk, and I automatically wrapped my arm around one of the young boys to keep him from falling out  He grabbed my arm with both of his, and pulled it tight to his thin little chest, and snuggled up to me as close as he could, and we rode all the way into town that way.  It just felt so right.  As we rode along, I wondered when was the last time he'd been hugged or cuddled.   

Deep inside, I wonder if he'll remember me years from now.  I doubt it.  But I do know that this afternoon, I was just the person he needed.  After we get on that plane for home,  there probably won't be much physical evidence of my having been here, but I hope that somehow I've helped to make this world a better place, even if just for one lonely little boy. 

Angkor Hospital for Children........... An inside view

This past Friday, April and I took three kids from Honour Village to the Angkor Hospital for Children.  (April and Rosie are gap year students volunteering with Honour Village through Project Trust).  Khaneung needed a follow-up visit for an eye inflammation, Sopheak was still having pain after a recent tooth extraction, and little 3-year-old Phanit had a problem with his front tooth.  When you have 32 kids, there's bound to be somebody needing attention.

Sopheak (L) and Khaneung (R) on the tuk-tuk ride to the hospital

Walking in the front entrance, I was very impressed.  Everything seemed very well organized.  It helped that April had been there a few times before and knew the ropes.  We were given a number and sat down to wait on some benches under a canopy outside the hospital entrance doors.  It was crowded and we'd brought along some books to keep the kids entertained.

Only a small section of the waiting area

It didn't take that long for our number to be called, and we were sent on inside to be triaged.  Having worked in hospitals a good portion of my life, I can honestly say this is the only hospital ever that I've been in where you are required to remove your shoes before entering. 

Shoes on one side of the door
Same amount on the opposite side....

We waited in a small waiting room until our names were called.  There were many sick kids waiting around.

Too bad I can't speak Khmer.
I didn't know what was wrong with this cute baby

This poor little one looked like he (she?) had mumps

Once the boys had their temperatures, weight, and pulse taken, we waited in a smaller area to be seen by the doctor.  It was a hallway filled with pictures and our friend Steve was keeping a lot of the kids entertained with colouring.  A big screen TV overhead was playing a kids' movie.

Watching the big screen!

April waiting patiently with Phanit

Steve entertaining the kids

The big screen TV

Finally the boys were seen briefly by a doctor who then directed us to the proper areas.  Khaneung went to the Eye Clinic.

Sopheak and Phanit went to the Dental Clinic

April in front of the dental clinic

Anyone who knows me will tell you I'm not the best with dentists...but I was elected to go in with the boys.  It was easy with Sopheak, who was just having a check-up, but poor little Phanit needed two front teeth extracted, and I had to be the one to soothe him, and at the same time hold him down.  I felt like the biggest meanie in the world.....but I didn't look... not once!... or I might have ended up on the floor myself.

After all that, I had to go to the pharmacy to pick up prescriptions. while April waited outside comforting Phanit who was in a lot of pain, poor little guy!

Pharmacy

All I can say is, it's a fantastic place.  Clean, bright, efficient.  Especially when you think of the number of kids coming in with so many problems.  It's refreshing and reassuring to know that these kids are being given a chance by the generosity of so many.  Thank you Friends Without A Border!  Thank you Angkor Hospital for Children!

Life in Cambodia - Part 4 - Healthcare

I recently had the occasion to go to a hospital, and to a dentist (hospital & dentist for a couple of the Honour Village kids, and dentist for me yesterday).  I'll be writing about my personal experiences in an upcoming blog, but for now, here's an overview of healthcare in Cambodia, as I know it.

When it comes to healthcare, I think we Canadians know we're among the most fortunate on the planet, yet all too often we complain bitterly about long wait times in doctors' offices or emergency rooms, not being able to get a family doctor, or having to wait forever to get elective surgery or referred to a specialist.  It isn't until I came to Cambodia that I learned just how bad it really could be, and how absolutely blessed we are.


Hospitals

In Cambodia, you had just better hope you don't get sick, especially if you're an adult.  (That is, of course, unless your rich or you are a foreigner with good medical insurance).  Medical care is 'pay-as-you-go' here, and although most doctors and hospitals probably charge only a fraction of the cost we'd pay in our own country, people here are just too poor to afford even the smallest fees.  Even worse, you can't trust that the doctor's office you visit has a 'real' doctor.  There are no strict regulations in place in Cambodia, and it seems that just about anybody can print up a medical degree and practice medicine if they want to.  Here it's 'buyer beware' in more things than just trinkets at the Old Market.  So you'd better get a referral from a reliable source if you need a doctor.


There are a few free medical clinics scattered around the countryside, but often people don't know about them, or they're too far away to get to.  Our friend Dr. Hahn was volunteering at one of these free cllinics.  Unfortunately it's now been closed indefinitely. 

Sign outside the free medical clinic

If you want good medical care, you can go to the Royal Angkor International Hospital, you'll be paying top dollar, so better make sure you've got good medical insurance or a pot of gold.  I heard one story of someone who went to this hospital with food poisoning.  They were given an IV, a prescription for antibiotic, then released....after they paid out $800! 

Where the select few go

  
Free medical care is available for children under the age of 16, but be prepared for a long wait..  The Angkor Hospital for Children in Siem Reap, funded by Friends Without a Border is a great place doing good work, but if you live in a remote village and have no way to get your kids to this hospital, it doesn't do you much good. 
A Cambodian friend of ours who is pregnant is also receiving free prenatal care.  I'm not sure who is funding this, but I'm glad to know there are more programs popping up to help this country get healthy.


Our friend Dr. Hahn recently visited The Angkor Children's Hospital and The Siem Reap Provincial Hospital, which is where adult Cambodians might go.  According to his account, the SRPH is ghastly.  You can read his account and description of both places here.  It's an enlightening account.


So what do people do if they get sick?  Out in the remote areas, they go to their village healer who performs 'magic'.  Supposedly many people are cured by these rituals ( the placebo effect, maybe?)  Most people in Cambodia believe in karma -if you do good, you get good, and vice versa...So if you get sick, you must have done something bad.  If you die, they chalk it up to something bad you did.  Same goes for somebody who gives birth to a deformed child, or breaks a leg. 

I have no idea what goes on here.....

Pharmacies

Almost anywhere you go in Cambodia, you will see an abundance of pharmacies.  Just today, I counted no less than six in one block (I'm not exaggerating!) 

Here a pharmacy

Everywhere a pharmacy

Anyone can go into a pharmacy without a prescription and buy just about any drug you can imagine.  They will sell you any number of pills no questions asked, without a prescription.  Most prescription drugs are really cheap, however, there are a lot of phoney drugs that get into this country and there's no sure way of telling if what you're buying is the real thing, so you're better off bringing what you need if you're coming here.  Interestingly enough, I priced some vitamins, and they were very expensive.

 People here use pharmacies as a way of getting free medical advice, because they can't afford doctors. They describe their symptoms to the person behind the counter (probably not a pharmacist), who will recommend a medication to alleviate the symptoms.  It's a crap shoot, and very dangerous.  I recently heard about a woman who complained of shortness of breath, and was given a drug for asthma by the pharmacy.  As it turned out, a medical doctor finally diagnosed her with high blood pressure associated with congestive heart failure, which causes shortness of breath.  The drug she'd been taking actually exacerbated the condition!


More scary is the fact that some poor people often can't afford to buy the full course of antibiotics 'prescribed' by the pharmacy, so end up buying only a few, hoping it will do the trick.  You can't blame them, they only want to do what's best for their child, yet this practice could be one of the reasons we are seeing the development of so many drug resistant strains of bacteria. 

Medical Laboratories

I've seen the occasional sign for medical laboratories.  They're usually out front of some tiny shop along the street, but I have no idea whether the people inside are qualified to take blood, or what happens to the specimens once they are received.  Interesting.

Dentists

Dentists here are almost as common as pharmacies, yet most people don't get dental care for the same reason they don't go to doctors.  Money.  The same rule also applies to dentists regarding licensing.  Anyone can print up a license and hang up a shingle.  So better beware before you get your teeth looked at!